What’s new?
On 26 June 2025, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) approved a new mandate to evaluate the safety of Heliotropin (CAS No. 120-57-0, EC No. 204-409-7), also known as piperonal, in cosmetic products.
This assessment was formally requested by the European Commission following receipt of an industry dossier in June 2025 defending the safe use of Heliotropin as a fragrance ingredient under Article 15(2) of the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
The mandate was triggered by the European Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) opinion issued in September 2024 recommending classification of Heliotropin as ‘Reproductive toxicant Category 1B (H360Fd)’ under the CLP Regulation. This classification, if implemented, would normally result in a prohibition of use in cosmetic products under Article 15(2) of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, unless specific safety criteria can be demonstrated.
Heliotropin is currently not listed in any Annex of the EU Cosmetics Regulation and has been widely used as a fragrance ingredient in perfumes, lotions, creams, shampoos, and other cosmetic products for its characteristic sweet, floral scent with vanilla and almond notes.
What now?
The SCCS is specifically requested to address the following issues:
- Whether Heliotropin is safe when used as an ingredient in fine fragrances for adults only up to 1.8% concentration
- If 1.8% is not considered safe, what maximum concentration would be acceptable for Heliotropin in cosmetic products
- Identification of any further scientific concerns regarding Heliotropin use in cosmetic products beyond reproductive toxicity
- Assessment of dermal, inhalation, and oral exposure risks from typical cosmetic use patterns
Preliminary opinion expected within 9 months following standard SCCS evaluation procedures, with public consultation period.
